From 205

wait wait… don’t (do) tell me!

owosso50 — Sat, 13 Nov 2010 14:35:02 +0000

Shown here are some photos from the recent WKAR TV sponsored excursion we took to Chicago to see a live taping of the National Public Radio show, “wait wait…don’t tell me.”

It had been several years since either of us had been in Chicago and our last time there it had been blustery and cold. This time the weather was remarkably warm. On both days, the 11th and 12th of November, the temperatures were in the mid sixties. It was sunny and not windy—contrary to the city’s reputation.

We also had time to do some shopping and visit both the Art Institute as well as the Museum of Contemporary Art. The latter was a particular treat for me as I was given an excellent introduction to the work of painter Luc Tuyman by an excellent docent.

At the Art Institute I had the pleasure of revisiting some favorited paintings and seeing some excellent photographs by David Plowden and Walker Evans.

Kate and I also enjoyed the company of our friend Jeanie Croope at a wonderful dinner at the Purple Pig. All-in-all it was a great two days.

Kiwi Magic

owosso50 — Sun, 28 Mar 2010 16:46:55 +0000

On Kauri, the north island of New Zealand, tree-sized ferns dominate the dense growth covering the sides of the dormant and not so dormant volcanoes. The growth is more like a jungle than a forest. Yet it is a forest, with Redwood, Eucalyptus, Fir, and Larch trees growing alongside ferns that are just as tall and massive. With each step further into this forest I felt the apprehension that attends entry into unfamiliar territory. I sensed there were creatures here that could do me grievous harm, even kill me. Surely this was so in the wilds of Australia, with its crocodiles, tiger snakes and some of the most poisonous spiders on the planet. But the fact is New Zealand has no snakes and few wild animals larger than an opossum. For humans New Zealand is a benign paradise, except for the ever-present possibility of being blasted into orbit by a volcano.

New Zealand can be summed up in a word—“beautiful.” The countryside is covered in rolling hills dotted with grazing sheep and cattle. Sheep outnumber people here. The sky is almost painfully blue—perhaps made more so because of the hole in the ozone layer directly above. Billowing white clouds often accent that blue, but can change in an instant to the grey that announces and delivers rain. Here you should dress in layers and be ready for whatever the next few minutes may bring. It is no wonder much of the movie “Lord of the Rings” was filmed here. New Zealand itself is a magical experience.

Our trip, with Active New Zealand, was designed to bring us close to the land and provide us with a memorable outdoor adventure and it did.

With the exception of my time as a Marine in Okinawa and Cuba, I have never become so intimate with the natural environment of a foreign country in so short a time. I felt and no doubt ate some of its soil. I bathed in the moist clouds of Tongariro National Park and swam in the poster-perfect Lake Okataina—no jet skis, motor boats or other swimmers—just me in the refreshing, clear water under a perfect sky. I dodged and darted through the Whakarewarewa forest, on a mountain bike, breathing in cool and fragrant air in a zen-like state, at one with time, place and space, hurtling past, around and over natural obstacles, any one of which could have killed me had that oneness lapsed for a split second. For me this was the absolute highlight of the trip and will be a highlight of my life. The time spent with Josh (our mountain biking guide), John and Nick riding through the woods, without care or worry, was as close to perfection as possible. I owe all of them a debt of gratitude for their enthusiasm, encouragement and sharing.

Kate had her own special New Zealand experiences, which she will share with her friends and in her writings in time to come. However, I know she very much enjoyed her experience black-water rafting through the Waitomo caves, although she found the wet suit she had to wear unflattering and uncomfortable.

We very much enjoyed the camaraderie of our traveling companions and the great humor, insight, knowledge, patience and consideration shown by our guides, Grant and Jaclyn. And together Kate and I took great pleasure hiking the Silica Rapids trail and the trail to Soda Springs in the Tongariro National Forest. Likewise, we enjoyed exploring the city of Auckland, which is highly cosmopolitan and apparently never sleeps. Not surprisingly we found a wonderful bookstore there—Parsons—and some excellent Art galleries.

All-in-all our time in Australia and New Zealand was a wonderful, worthwhile and unforgettable experience.

From Way Down Under

owosso50 — Sun, 28 Mar 2010 16:17:09 +0000

It was snowing, on the 26^th of February 2010, as Kate and I left for East Lansing. On the way one of my truck’s windshield wipers was about to fully disengage but there was no time to fix it. We drove on and arrived with only a few minutes to catch the Michigan Flyer bus to Detroit Metro for our flight to Los Angeles on the first leg of our trip to Australia and New Zealand. We had been planning this trip for months—actually Kate did most of the planning, for which I am grateful. Nonetheless, preparing for what would be the farthest either of us had traveled from Michigan had consumed much of our time this winter.

The New Zealand adventure called for special clothing and equipment, appropriate for a variety of weather and outdoor activities, as we would be hiking, biking and black-water rafting. Active New Zealand provided us with a detailed list of what we would need, but who knew which of those items would prove necessary? So we calculated and recalculated space, weight, costs and anticipated needs. It turns out we did ok but were not perfect.

In Australia, which would be the first part of the trip, we would stay with our friends Kate and Daryl at their home near Geelong in the state of Victoria. The two Kates had worked together as teachers in Michigan and remained close friends over the years. More than 20 years ago Kate J. left for Australia, to teach in the prison system there. There she met Daryl, a prison administrator, they soon married and she has been a resident of Australia ever since.

Our bus ride from East Lansing to the Detroit airport was comfortable and efficient with the single interruption of a twenty-minute delay caused by a highway accident. In spite of this we arrived at Metro with plenty of time. Detroit Metropolitan Airport proved a pleasant surprise. We were helped by gracious and thoughtful airport personnel who made our check-in and security screenings easy and fast. Detroit would prove to be the best airport we would pass through throughout our trip—better than Sydney (the worst), Los Angeles, Melbourne and Auckland.

Finally we were on board the plane for the flight to L.A., but would we be allowed to take off? The snow was falling steadily now and we’d heard reports saying that airports were closing out East. We had to wait for nearly an hour and a half and be de-iced a second time before finally getting into the air. This delay assured we would miss our scheduled connection in Los Angeles to Sydney. However, luck was on our side. The flight we had to catch in Los Angeles was itself delayed for 2 hours because of weather. So we made the connection after all.

Our flight from California to Sydney took more than 13 hours during which I sat next to a personable young Australian college student, who had the flu. This did not bode well. Later I would have to be treated in Australia, for flu-symptoms and an infected ear. The result was that for the entire trip I endured a plugged up ear and was on antibiotics. However none of this prevented me from enjoying our participating in our adventures. Fortunately, neither of the Kates, nor Daryl caught what I had.

Daryl and Kate were thoughtful and selfless hosts and the time we all spent together will be one of the fondest memories of my life. The four of us spent three days traveling along the Great Ocean Road, which afforded Kate and I the pleasure of seeing Australia from the perspective of two people who live there—and one who was born there. We saw the Twelve Apostles, the Otway Lighthouse, wild kangaroos, emus, echidna, and koalas and we visited Port Fairy, Apollo Bay, Lorne, Geelong, and Melbourne. I learned to order “long blacks” and “tim tams.” I even tried Vegamite and discovered I definitely do not have a taste for it. However, I learned I really do like Carleton (Australian) and Speights (New Zealand) beers!

Staying with Kate and Daryl also meant sharing time with their two dogs, Roscoe and Scarlet. I love dogs so this was a special treat for me. Roscoe wasn’t so sure, at least not for the first few days. But finally, grudgingly, he accepted the reality and warmed up to me and let me share space with him on the (his) couch.

NOTE: If you, the reader, ever visit Melbourne and are told to go to “Jeff’s Shed” be advised it is not a coffee shop. It’s something of an inside joke. However, once you are let in on it the place is hard to miss.

Three Rivers, Trader Joe’s and More

owosso50 — Fri, 23 Oct 2009 19:38:17 +0000

I am back in Michigan and am resigned to the cold and gray of the coming months. To some degree it will be eased by the memories of these past eight days in the New Mexico sun.

In sum, this trip was very satisfying though exhausting. At age 59 I remain sturdy but do have to pace myself. Having had the freedom to photograph as I pleased was a welcome difference from many of my recent travels.

I covered a lot of ground, from Alamogordo in the south to Taos in the north. I experienced the desert, mountains, galleries, and the wondrous New Mexico sky at night. I reveled in the brilliant yellows of the Aspens and Cottonwoods. I listened to the song of the mountain stream at Big Tesuque Trail and strolled the Santa Fe plaza in the morning, before the tourists arrived. I stayed for two nights in a sometimes spooky though clean and comfortable Hacienda in Tularosa. I hiked among the ancient petroglyphs at Three Rivers and I played in the gypsum sands of the White Sands National Monument. I stood transfixed before the marker that marks the road to Trinity site where the first atomic bomb was exploded and I photographed the black volcanic boulders in the Valley of Fires, near Carrizozo. I ate the fabled green chili burger at the Owl Bar in San Antonio (NM) and experienced the hospitality, friendship and generosity of Dick and Jane Rosemont who opened their home to me and made my stay in Santa Fe a joy.

I even saw Georgia O’Keeffe’s beloved Pedernal, albeit from a distance. Likewise, I saw the great gorge near Taos. And for the first time I photographed a penitente morada—a historic one built between 1810 and 1839. I even got to photograph rusting cars, old signs, and deserted buildings.

Here are a few more images from my Southwestern adventure:

A gallery in Taos © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

The picture above shows a typical gallery in Taos.

The plaza in Taos, NM., © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

The plaza in Taos.

Cottonwood with Studebaker, Taos, NM, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

South of Taos.

Red and Yellow, Embudo, NM, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

Color at Embudo Station.

Owl Bar, San Antonio, NM, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

The Owl Bar, in San Antonio, New Mexico is noted for its green chili burger and I can attest they are good. Trinity site is not far from here and many of those who worked on the bomb spent time here.

Inside the Owl, San Antonio, NM, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

The bar in the Owl is from the saloon that Conrad Hilton’s father once owned. Conrad Hilton was born in San Antonio, New Mexico.

Bucks and Beer at the Owl Bar, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

A tradition at the Owl is to tack a dollar to the wall.
Once a year the money is collected and donated to a charity.

Three Rivers Petroglyphs, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

Some of the 21,000 petroglyphs cataloged at the Three Rivers Petroglyph site, near Tularosa, NM.

White Sands National Monument, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

Eat Mo’ Moonpies

owosso50 — Tue, 20 Oct 2009 03:18:23 +0000

Taos, NM, 19 October 2009

Dick and Jane Rosemont and I drove to Taos this morning. Our original plan was to visit the Taos Pueblo, but other roadside attractions changed all that.

Just as we arrived it began to sprinkle. So we headed to Bent’s Cafe for breakfast. I had a great cinnamon roll, a bowl of oatmeal with raisins, coffee and orange juice. While we ate it rained, but before we were ready to leave the sun broke through and with that came another fine morning in New Mexico.

After walking about the plaza Jane suggested we go to an old cemetery nearby. She said there would be a surprise. After looking at several uniquely New Mexican grave sites we proceeded to drive down a narrow dirt lane, wide enough for just one vehicle. At the end was a gate and footbridge, beyond which stood a large Cottonwood and in the distance the land of Taos Pueblo and the magnificent Sangre de Cristo mountains.

Crossing the bridge the surprise was revealed. It was a morada—the historic Morada de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe. It was built between 1810 and 1830 for a brotherhood of Penitentes. It was restored in the late nineteen seventies and today houses artifacts from the Taos Historical Society. It is listed on the historic register, but is not really open as a tourist attraction and in fact few people know about it.

Here are few images from our morning in Taos:

Cemetery near the Taos Morada, Taos, NM, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

Note in the picture above the “please do not litter” sign at the base of the cross.

Morada de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe, Taos, NM., © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

Morada de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe, Taos, NM, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

Dick and Jane Rosemont, Taos, NM, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

In the picture above Jane and Dick walk along the fence marking the land of the Taos Pueblo. This view is from the Morada looking toward the Sangre de Cristo mountains.

Mike's place, near Taos, NM, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

Ever the entrepreneur Mike discovers a property near Taos made just for him.

Cars and Coca Cola, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

South of Taos, heading for Santa Fe we found this roadside attraction. Essentially it was a deserted museum. At least no one came out to greet us. So we photographed as we saw fit.

Studebaker, Barbed Wire and Milk Jug, Taos, NM © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

At the same deserted museum I photographed this old Studebaker and its cargo.

Frontier, Taos, NM © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

Eat “Mo Moonpies” is the roadside sign in front of the deserted museum.

Cottonwoods and the Rio Grande at Embudo Station, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

Heading south, back toward Santa Fe, we stopped at Embudo Station along the Rio Grande.

After returning to Santa Fe I gassed the car for the trip to Albuquerque airport tomorrow. Then Dick, Jane and I all went to Harry’s Roadhouse for dinner. After that we made a quick stop at the Santa Fe Trader Joes, then returned to Casa Rosemont, and called it a day.

Trails End

owosso50 — Mon, 19 Oct 2009 05:02:45 +0000

Santa Fe, NM, 18 October 2009

The trip is nearly at its end. Tomorrow will be my last night in Santa Fe.

Today was particularly enjoyable. I began by doing some early morning photography on and around the plaza, followed by a quick trip the the DeVargas mall to buy some groceries for Dick and Jane. While at the Mall I stopped at Java Joes for coffee and a cranberry pecan muffin. Both were excellent.

Then it was back downtown where I visited the Palace of the Governors. Here I saw two fine exhibits. One titled Tesoros de Devicion, the Treasures of Devotion and Through the Lens, Creating Santa Fe. In the afternoon I attended exhibits of the work of Gustave Baumann (a special treat for me) and Georgia O’Keeffee, as well as the Lannan Foundation sponsored exhibit, Notions of the Landscape and The Surreal Life, at the New Mexico Museum of Art. All were a joy, although I didn’t really care for The Surreal Life.

While viewing the Treasures of Devotion I had a good conversation with one of the security guards. He pointed out some key features of the Santos on display. He also told of coming into the gallery one day recently and finding three elderly hispanic women on their knees and wearing mantillas as they recited the rosary. He stepped back and prevented anyone else from entering until they were finished.

This particular exhibit had a powerful effect on me too, even though I am not Catholic. To see the carvings of saints and crucifixes that once hung in the chapels an homes of New Mexicans in the seventeenth, eighteenth and nineteenth centuries was a testament to their faith—a faith evident in the care with which these treasures of devotion were made.

The photography exhibit was also powerful and informative—one of the most enjoyable photography exhibits I have seen. It pictured the development of the city as place, identity and history through the work of many photographers, including: Lee Friedlander, Ansel Adams, Eliot Porter, Ernest Knee, Laura Gilpin and many, many more.

For dinner I went again to the Blue Corn restaurant, where I had a fine green chili burger and fries. After that I joined the Rosements and their guests, the Rudds, for wine on the upper deck.

Here are a few photos from today:

1955 Ford Fairlane Crown Victoria, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

A pristine 1955 Ford Fairlane Crown Victoria passing in front of St. Francis Cathedral, Santa Fe, NM.

The end of the Santa Fe Trail © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

The picture above shows the marker in the plaza marking the actual endpoint of the Santa Fe Trail.

Institute of American Indian Art, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

This photo is of the Institute of American Art. Here native Americans learn to become complete artists blending contemporary art with their native sensibilities and consciousness.

The plaza without tourists, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

This morning was beautiful and a jacket wasn’t necessary. You can see some of the native americans already positioned to sell their wares. Most of the tourists were still in bed.

Have a Latte Day, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

This fellow is reading the Sunday paper and patiently awaiting his early morning latte—maybe.

Georgia O'keeffe Museum, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

Georgia’s place.

A view of Casa Rosemont, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

Dick and Jane’s place.

Aspen Splendor and Raspberry Infused French Toast

owosso50 — Sat, 17 Oct 2009 23:31:54 +0000

Santa Fe, NM, 17 October 2009

Before sunrise I drove nine miles up the mountains to a place called Aspen Vista. This is a dicey adventure for someone not accustomed to driving in the mountains, in the dark.

When I arrived dawn was beginning to break. I had hoped for a few clouds to play the sunlight. That didn’t happen. So I proceeded to make the kinds of pictures best made in the shade, all the while knowing that once the sun rose high enough the aspens would burst into a shimmering display of bright yellow against the deep shadows of the mountainsides and the clear azure sky.

Soon enough I was treated to a display no painter could hope to match nor photographer capture–though I tried. The cool clear air was so quiet that when a crow flew overhead I heard the flapping of its wings. For the first time since being in New Mexico I was compelled to wear my polar fleece vest, photo jacket and photo gloves.

(The following are images made an Aspen Vista, just above Santa Fe.)

(The following images are from the Big Tesuque trail, just below Aspen Vista.)

After some time at Aspen Vista I decided to try the Big Tesuque trail nearby. It proved quiet rugged and I did not complete the loop. Over halfway into my hike I was surprised by the buzzing of my cell phone. It was Kate calling me from Michigan. I was glad to get her call, but disappointed I had left myself so vulnerable to interruption. However, I had already started back down the path with the idea of heading to the Atomic Grill in Santa Fe for a late breakfast of raspberry infused french toast and coffee. And that is exactly what I did, save for a few more photo stops on the way down.

By now it was nearly noon and downtown Santa Fe was filled with people trying to find someplace to eat. Fortunately the Atomic Grill is tucked out of immediate view, so even though it was nearly full it had seats left. The French Toast was the perfect choice.

Sated, I crossed the street to the Monroe Gallery of Photography to see the current exhibit of work by Stephen Wilkes. Kate and I had seen his large photographs of Ellis Island on a previous trip to Santa Fe. This exhibit showed pieces from that exhibit plus others and his more recent work. It was excellent.

Next I visited LewAllen Contemporary gallery—I always visit here when I am able. I was fortunate to see two fine pieces by Sharon Booma and two others by Sammy Peters, both artists I admire very much.

Next I went to the Georgia O’keeffe Museum. This was a bit disappointing. The current exhibit featured photographs of Georgia both in New York and New Mexico. They were in the nature of snapshots and with a couple of exceptions, not particularly interesting. Still I like her work and always enjoy seeing it again.

By this point I was bushed so I decided to retire to Dick and Janes for a rest and to update this blog.

Old Town Southwestern Style

owosso50 — Sat, 17 Oct 2009 04:23:06 +0000

Just a quick update. I will write more later. Below are some shots taken yesterday afternoon in Alubquerque.

The Hacienda in Tularosa

owosso50 — Fri, 16 Oct 2009 04:03:31 +0000

What follows are images of the Hacienda De Mi Madre, the bed and breakfast I stayed at for two nights in Tularosa, New Mexico. It is a study in contrast. The Hacienda itself was comfortable, clean and quiet. The owners were helpful and hospitable. Yet it was in the midst of what could be characterized as a ghost town. Most of the buildings on Granado street were vacant. On the west side of the Hacienda was the shell of what had been a grocery store. Further up street was Coffee and More, in what had been the Tularosa Dry Goods store. Surprisingly it had wireless internet and I was able to use my laptop.

TO BE CONTINUED…

Fat Cottonwoods, Rockets and Road Runners

owosso50 — Fri, 16 Oct 2009 03:47:26 +0000

Yesterday, the 14th of October was a long, hot and wonderful day. It began with a visit to the Space History Center in Alamogordo.

When I purchased my admission ticket I mentioned to the woman that my oldest son was an aerospace engineer, and that he would love to see this place. She asked where he worked and a I told her he was a research scientist at Lawrence Livermore Labs. As I told her this an older man in the office with her was listening. Later he came up to me as I was looking out the 4th floor window across Hollowman Air Force Base at White Sands. He wanted to know more about the kind of work Matt was doing. That started a great conversation. His name was Charles, I believe, but I failed to make a note of it.

Soon some other people came by and he asked if we all would like him to do a talk and demonstration on the biological effects of space travel on the astronauts. I said, ” absolutely.” So he began a fascinating talk explaining how the astronauts eat, eliminate body wastes and sleep in space.

It turns out he was a former underwater demolitions officer who later became a NASA recovery specialist. Now retired he works as a docent at the center. He had lots of stories about the astronauts he knew and worked with. He told the group that he was one of the guys who jumped into the water from helicopters to swim to the capsules and open the hatches (Mercury, Apollo and Gemini. One day a year or two ago in one of his talks at the center he explained he had been one of three swimmers who open the hatches on the Apollo capsule that astronaut William Anders had been on. A woman then stood up and said “I have to shake your hand right now.” She went on to say, “I have always wanted to meet the men who threw up on my father.” She was William Anders daughter.

Apparently the astronauts on that mission had become ill due to failures with the methods then in use for on-board hygiene. Consequently body waste had been released into the cabin and all the astronauts had vomited. The stench was horrific. When he and the two other swimmers opened the hatches they were overcome by this stench and vomited on the astronauts inside. He later spoke with Anders and apologized. Anders responded “I hadn’t noticed.”

After the formal presentation he and I had a lengthy conversation, and he shared several anecdotes about the space programs and the many astronauts he knew.

After leaving the Space Center I drove to White Sands National Monument. Immediately upon arriving I saw a young girl with a cellphone camera trying to photograph a Road Runner in the bushes next to the visitors center. I took advantage of the opportunity and we both got our pictures. I then spent the rest of the afternoon in solitary bliss, finding compositions in the dunes—reading the play of light and shadows and marveling at this spectacle.

Near sunset I joined a group led by one of the Rangers, for what was supposed to be an informative tour. However, this Ranger seemed to know very little about her surroundings. She was unsure which mountain range was to the east of White Sands was it the San Andres or the Sacramentos, she said “I can never keep them straight.” I knew but didn’t say anything. Someone asked her did the Rio Grande river flow nearby. She said she didn’t know. However, I did learn from her the name of the beetle I had photographed at the Bosque del Apache, the day before and she told us that Alamogordo in Spanish means, “fat cottonwood tree.”. To be fair she is a student and this is a part-time job for her. She is not a trained naturalist. Still you’d think she would remember the San Andres mountains provide the western boundary of White Sands and the Sacramentos make the eastern boundary.