Kiwi Magic
On Kauri, the north island of New Zealand, tree-sized ferns dominate the dense growth covering the sides of the dormant and not so dormant volcanoes. The growth is more like a jungle than a forest. Yet it is a forest, with Redwood, Eucalyptus, Fir, and Larch trees growing alongside ferns that are just as tall and massive. With each step further into this forest I felt the apprehension that attends entry into unfamiliar territory. I sensed there were creatures here that could do me grievous harm, even kill me. Surely this was so in the wilds of Australia, with its crocodiles, tiger snakes and some of the most poisonous spiders on the planet. But the fact is New Zealand has no snakes and few wild animals larger than an opossum. For humans New Zealand is a benign paradise, except for the ever-present possibility of being blasted into orbit by a volcano.
New Zealand can be summed up in a word—“beautiful.” The countryside is covered in rolling hills dotted with grazing sheep and cattle. Sheep outnumber people here. The sky is almost painfully blue—perhaps made more so because of the hole in the ozone layer directly above. Billowing white clouds often accent that blue, but can change in an instant to the grey that announces and delivers rain. Here you should dress in layers and be ready for whatever the next few minutes may bring. It is no wonder much of the movie “Lord of the Rings” was filmed here. New Zealand itself is a magical experience.
Our trip, with Active New Zealand, was designed to bring us close to the land and provide us with a memorable outdoor adventure and it did.
With the exception of my time as a Marine in Okinawa and Cuba, I have never become so intimate with the natural environment of a foreign country in so short a time. I felt and no doubt ate some of its soil. I bathed in the moist clouds of Tongariro National Park and swam in the poster-perfect Lake Okataina—no jet skis, motor boats or other swimmers—just me in the refreshing, clear water under a perfect sky. I dodged and darted through the Whakarewarewa forest, on a mountain bike, breathing in cool and fragrant air in a zen-like state, at one with time, place and space, hurtling past, around and over natural obstacles, any one of which could have killed me had that oneness lapsed for a split second. For me this was the absolute highlight of the trip and will be a highlight of my life. The time spent with Josh (our mountain biking guide), John and Nick riding through the woods, without care or worry, was as close to perfection as possible. I owe all of them a debt of gratitude for their enthusiasm, encouragement and sharing.
Kate had her own special New Zealand experiences, which she will share with her friends and in her writings in time to come. However, I know she very much enjoyed her experience black-water rafting through the Waitomo caves, although she found the wet suit she had to wear unflattering and uncomfortable.
We very much enjoyed the camaraderie of our traveling companions and the great humor, insight, knowledge, patience and consideration shown by our guides, Grant and Jaclyn. And together Kate and I took great pleasure hiking the Silica Rapids trail and the trail to Soda Springs in the Tongariro National Forest. Likewise, we enjoyed exploring the city of Auckland, which is highly cosmopolitan and apparently never sleeps. Not surprisingly we found a wonderful bookstore there—Parsons—and some excellent Art galleries.
All-in-all our time in Australia and New Zealand was a wonderful, worthwhile and unforgettable experience.
Our "Active New Zealand Group," at Lake Okataina, NZ. © 2010 Michael Maurer Smith
Giant fern in the Okataina forest. NZ © 2010 Michael Maurer Smith
Okataina forest, Kauri, NZ © 2010 Michael Maurer Smith
Maori performer. Kauri, NZ © 2010 Michael Maurer Smith
Maori performance, Kauri, NZ © 2010 Michael Maurer Smith
Morning in Tongariro National Park, Kauri, NZ © 2010 Michael Maurer Smith
Our group heading for Soda Springs, Tongariro, Kauri, NZ © 2010 Michael Maurer Smith
Our group climbing to Soda Springs, Tongariro, Kauri, NZ © 2010 Michael Maurer Smith
Grant and Kate (white pants) hiking at Tongariro, NZ © 2010 Michael Maurer Smith
Silica Rapids, Tongariro National Park, Kauri, NZ © 2010 Michael Maurer Smith
Kate heads into the forest at Orokawa beach, Kauri, NZ © 2010 Michael Maurer Smith
Kiwi fruit. Kauri, NZ © 2010 Michael Maurer Smith
A view from the bus window. Kauri, NZ © 2010 Michael Maurer Smith
Sky Tower and skyline at night. Auckland, NZ © 2010 Michael Maurer Smith
Racing yacht on the Quay, Auckland, NZ © 2010 Michael Maurer Smith
Filed under: New Zealand, Photography Comment, Travel | 1 Comment
Tags: Active New Zealand, Auckland, Hangi, Hiking, Kauri, Maori, New Zealand, Okataina, Orokawa, Tongariro
The foggy mountain, that tree in the forest — shooting up. Drop dead gorgeous, gasping! I have to say that when I see the folks resting on their active adventures I think “better you than me!” But I know it had to be a vacation for the ages!