Kiwi Magic
On Kauri, the north island of New Zealand, tree-sized ferns dominate the dense growth covering the sides of the dormant and not so dormant volcanoes. The growth is more like a jungle than a forest. Yet it is a forest, with Redwood, Eucalyptus, Fir, and Larch trees growing alongside ferns that are just as tall and massive. With each step further into this forest I felt the apprehension that attends entry into unfamiliar territory. I sensed there were creatures here that could do me grievous harm, even kill me. Surely this was so in the wilds of Australia, with its crocodiles, tiger snakes and some of the most poisonous spiders on the planet. But the fact is New Zealand has no snakes and few wild animals larger than an opossum. For humans New Zealand is a benign paradise, except for the ever-present possibility of being blasted into orbit by a volcano.
New Zealand can be summed up in a word—“beautiful.” The countryside is covered in rolling hills dotted with grazing sheep and cattle. Sheep outnumber people here. The sky is almost painfully blue—perhaps made more so because of the hole in the ozone layer directly above. Billowing white clouds often accent that blue, but can change in an instant to the grey that announces and delivers rain. Here you should dress in layers and be ready for whatever the next few minutes may bring. It is no wonder much of the movie “Lord of the Rings” was filmed here. New Zealand itself is a magical experience.
Our trip, with Active New Zealand, was designed to bring us close to the land and provide us with a memorable outdoor adventure and it did.
With the exception of my time as a Marine in Okinawa and Cuba, I have never become so intimate with the natural environment of a foreign country in so short a time. I felt and no doubt ate some of its soil. I bathed in the moist clouds of Tongariro National Park and swam in the poster-perfect Lake Okataina—no jet skis, motor boats or other swimmers—just me in the refreshing, clear water under a perfect sky. I dodged and darted through the Whakarewarewa forest, on a mountain bike, breathing in cool and fragrant air in a zen-like state, at one with time, place and space, hurtling past, around and over natural obstacles, any one of which could have killed me had that oneness lapsed for a split second. For me this was the absolute highlight of the trip and will be a highlight of my life. The time spent with Josh (our mountain biking guide), John and Nick riding through the woods, without care or worry, was as close to perfection as possible. I owe all of them a debt of gratitude for their enthusiasm, encouragement and sharing.
Kate had her own special New Zealand experiences, which she will share with her friends and in her writings in time to come. However, I know she very much enjoyed her experience black-water rafting through the Waitomo caves, although she found the wet suit she had to wear unflattering and uncomfortable.
We very much enjoyed the camaraderie of our traveling companions and the great humor, insight, knowledge, patience and consideration shown by our guides, Grant and Jaclyn. And together Kate and I took great pleasure hiking the Silica Rapids trail and the trail to Soda Springs in the Tongariro National Forest. Likewise, we enjoyed exploring the city of Auckland, which is highly cosmopolitan and apparently never sleeps. Not surprisingly we found a wonderful bookstore there—Parsons—and some excellent Art galleries.
All-in-all our time in Australia and New Zealand was a wonderful, worthwhile and unforgettable experience.
Filed under: New Zealand, Photography Comment, Travel | 1 Comment
Tags: Active New Zealand, Auckland, Hangi, Hiking, Kauri, Maori, New Zealand, Okataina, Orokawa, Tongariro
I am back in Michigan and am resigned to the cold and gray of the coming months. To some degree it will be eased by the memories of these past eight days in the New Mexico sun.
In sum, this trip was very satisfying though exhausting. At age 59 I remain sturdy but do have to pace myself. Having had the freedom to photograph as I pleased was a welcome difference from many of my recent travels.
I covered a lot of ground, from Alamogordo in the south to Taos in the north. I experienced the desert, mountains, galleries, and the wondrous New Mexico sky at night. I reveled in the brilliant yellows of the Aspens and Cottonwoods. I listened to the song of the mountain stream at Big Tesuque Trail and strolled the Santa Fe plaza in the morning, before the tourists arrived. I stayed for two nights in a sometimes spooky though clean and comfortable Hacienda in Tularosa. I hiked among the ancient petroglyphs at Three Rivers and I played in the gypsum sands of the White Sands National Monument. I stood transfixed before the marker that marks the road to Trinity site where the first atomic bomb was exploded and I photographed the black volcanic boulders in the Valley of Fires, near Carrizozo. I ate the fabled green chili burger at the Owl Bar in San Antonio (NM) and experienced the hospitality, friendship and generosity of Dick and Jane Rosemont who opened their home to me and made my stay in Santa Fe a joy.
I even saw Georgia O’Keeffe’s beloved Pedernal, albeit from a distance. Likewise, I saw the great gorge near Taos. And for the first time I photographed a penitente morada—a historic one built between 1810 and 1839. I even got to photograph rusting cars, old signs, and deserted buildings.
Here are a few more images from my Southwestern adventure:

A gallery in Taos © Michael Maurer Smith 2009
The picture above shows a typical gallery in Taos.

The plaza in Taos, NM., © Michael Maurer Smith 2009
The plaza in Taos.

Cottonwood with Studebaker, Taos, NM, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009
South of Taos.

Red and Yellow, Embudo, NM, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009
Color at Embudo Station.

Owl Bar, San Antonio, NM, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009
The Owl Bar, in San Antonio, New Mexico is noted for its green chili burger and I can attest they are good. Trinity site is not far from here and many of those who worked on the bomb spent time here.

Inside the Owl, San Antonio, NM, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009
The bar in the Owl is from the saloon that Conrad Hilton’s father once owned. Conrad Hilton was born in San Antonio, New Mexico.

Bucks and Beer at the Owl Bar, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009
A tradition at the Owl is to tack a dollar to the wall.
Once a year the money is collected and donated to a charity.

Three Rivers Petroglyphs, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009
Some of the 21,000 petroglyphs cataloged at the Three Rivers Petroglyph site, near Tularosa, NM.

White Sands National Monument, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

White Sands National Monument, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009
Filed under: New Mexico | 2 Comments
Tags: Big Tesuque, Embudo, Kate, New Mexico, Patina, roadside, Santa Fe, southwest, Taos, Travel, Tularosa, White Sands
Eat Mo’ Moonpies
Taos, NM, 19 October 2009
Dick and Jane Rosemont and I drove to Taos this morning. Our original plan was to visit the Taos Pueblo, but other roadside attractions changed all that.
Just as we arrived it began to sprinkle. So we headed to Bent’s Cafe for breakfast. I had a great cinnamon roll, a bowl of oatmeal with raisins, coffee and orange juice. While we ate it rained, but before we were ready to leave the sun broke through and with that came another fine morning in New Mexico.
After walking about the plaza Jane suggested we go to an old cemetery nearby. She said there would be a surprise. After looking at several uniquely New Mexican grave sites we proceeded to drive down a narrow dirt lane, wide enough for just one vehicle. At the end was a gate and footbridge, beyond which stood a large Cottonwood and in the distance the land of Taos Pueblo and the magnificent Sangre de Cristo mountains.
Crossing the bridge the surprise was revealed. It was a morada—the historic Morada de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe. It was built between 1810 and 1830 for a brotherhood of Penitentes. It was restored in the late nineteen seventies and today houses artifacts from the Taos Historical Society. It is listed on the historic register, but is not really open as a tourist attraction and in fact few people know about it.
Here are few images from our morning in Taos:

Cemetery near the Taos Morada, Taos, NM, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009
Note in the picture above the “please do not litter” sign at the base of the cross.

Morada de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe, Taos, NM., © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

Morada de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe, Taos, NM, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

Dick and Jane Rosemont, Taos, NM, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009
In the picture above Jane and Dick walk along the fence marking the land of the Taos Pueblo. This view is from the Morada looking toward the Sangre de Cristo mountains.

Mike's place, near Taos, NM, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009
Ever the entrepreneur Mike discovers a property near Taos made just for him.

Cars and Coca Cola, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009
South of Taos, heading for Santa Fe we found this roadside attraction. Essentially it was a deserted museum. At least no one came out to greet us. So we photographed as we saw fit.

Studebaker, Barbed Wire and Milk Jug, Taos, NM © Michael Maurer Smith 2009
At the same deserted museum I photographed this old Studebaker and its cargo.

Frontier, Taos, NM © Michael Maurer Smith 2009
Eat “Mo Moonpies” is the roadside sign in front of the deserted museum.

Cottonwoods and the Rio Grande at Embudo Station, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009
Heading south, back toward Santa Fe, we stopped at Embudo Station along the Rio Grande.
After returning to Santa Fe I gassed the car for the trip to Albuquerque airport tomorrow. Then Dick, Jane and I all went to Harry’s Roadhouse for dinner. After that we made a quick stop at the Santa Fe Trader Joes, then returned to Casa Rosemont, and called it a day.
© Michael Maurer Smith 2009
Filed under: New Mexico, Photography Comment | 1 Comment
Tags: abandoned, cemetery, Cottonwood, cross, crucifix, Embudo, moon pies, Morada, mountains, New Mexico, Penitentes, photography, Rio Grande, roadside, sign, southwest, Taos, Travel
Trails End
Santa Fe, NM, 18 October 2009
The trip is nearly at its end. Tomorrow will be my last night in Santa Fe.
Today was particularly enjoyable. I began by doing some early morning photography on and around the plaza, followed by a quick trip the the DeVargas mall to buy some groceries for Dick and Jane. While at the Mall I stopped at Java Joes for coffee and a cranberry pecan muffin. Both were excellent.
Then it was back downtown where I visited the Palace of the Governors. Here I saw two fine exhibits. One titled Tesoros de Devicion, the Treasures of Devotion and Through the Lens, Creating Santa Fe. In the afternoon I attended exhibits of the work of Gustave Baumann (a special treat for me) and Georgia O’Keeffee, as well as the Lannan Foundation sponsored exhibit, Notions of the Landscape and The Surreal Life, at the New Mexico Museum of Art. All were a joy, although I didn’t really care for The Surreal Life.
While viewing the Treasures of Devotion I had a good conversation with one of the security guards. He pointed out some key features of the Santos on display. He also told of coming into the gallery one day recently and finding three elderly hispanic women on their knees and wearing mantillas as they recited the rosary. He stepped back and prevented anyone else from entering until they were finished.
This particular exhibit had a powerful effect on me too, even though I am not Catholic. To see the carvings of saints and crucifixes that once hung in the chapels an homes of New Mexicans in the seventeenth, eighteenth and nineteenth centuries was a testament to their faith—a faith evident in the care with which these treasures of devotion were made.
The photography exhibit was also powerful and informative—one of the most enjoyable photography exhibits I have seen. It pictured the development of the city as place, identity and history through the work of many photographers, including: Lee Friedlander, Ansel Adams, Eliot Porter, Ernest Knee, Laura Gilpin and many, many more.
For dinner I went again to the Blue Corn restaurant, where I had a fine green chili burger and fries. After that I joined the Rosements and their guests, the Rudds, for wine on the upper deck.
Here are a few photos from today:

1955 Ford Fairlane Crown Victoria, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009
A pristine 1955 Ford Fairlane Crown Victoria passing in front of St. Francis Cathedral, Santa Fe, NM.

The end of the Santa Fe Trail © Michael Maurer Smith 2009
The picture above shows the marker in the plaza marking the actual endpoint of the Santa Fe Trail.

Institute of American Indian Art, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009
This photo is of the Institute of American Art. Here native Americans learn to become complete artists blending contemporary art with their native sensibilities and consciousness.

The plaza without tourists, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009
This morning was beautiful and a jacket wasn’t necessary. You can see some of the native americans already positioned to sell their wares. Most of the tourists were still in bed.

Have a Latte Day, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009
This fellow is reading the Sunday paper and patiently awaiting his early morning latte—maybe.

Georgia O'keeffe Museum, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009
Georgia’s place.

A view of Casa Rosemont, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009
Dick and Jane’s place.
Filed under: New Mexico, Uncategorized | 1 Comment
Tags: Cottonwood, IAIA, New Mexico, photography, plaza, Santa Fe, southwest, Travel
Santa Fe, NM, 17 October 2009
Before sunrise I drove nine miles up the mountains to a place called Aspen Vista. This is a dicey adventure for someone not accustomed to driving in the mountains, in the dark.
When I arrived dawn was beginning to break. I had hoped for a few clouds to play the sunlight. That didn’t happen. So I proceeded to make the kinds of pictures best made in the shade, all the while knowing that once the sun rose high enough the aspens would burst into a shimmering display of bright yellow against the deep shadows of the mountainsides and the clear azure sky.
Soon enough I was treated to a display no painter could hope to match nor photographer capture–though I tried. The cool clear air was so quiet that when a crow flew overhead I heard the flapping of its wings. For the first time since being in New Mexico I was compelled to wear my polar fleece vest, photo jacket and photo gloves.
(The following are images made an Aspen Vista, just above Santa Fe.)

Aspen Vista, near Santa Fe, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

Aspen branch, Aspen Vista near Santa Fe, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

On the way up to Aspen Vista, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009
(The following images are from the Big Tesuque trail, just below Aspen Vista.)

Detail of Big Tesuque Trail, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

A view from Big Tesuque Trail, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009
After some time at Aspen Vista I decided to try the Big Tesuque trail nearby. It proved quiet rugged and I did not complete the loop. Over halfway into my hike I was surprised by the buzzing of my cell phone. It was Kate calling me from Michigan. I was glad to get her call, but disappointed I had left myself so vulnerable to interruption. However, I had already started back down the path with the idea of heading to the Atomic Grill in Santa Fe for a late breakfast of raspberry infused french toast and coffee. And that is exactly what I did, save for a few more photo stops on the way down.
By now it was nearly noon and downtown Santa Fe was filled with people trying to find someplace to eat. Fortunately the Atomic Grill is tucked out of immediate view, so even though it was nearly full it had seats left. The French Toast was the perfect choice.
Sated, I crossed the street to the Monroe Gallery of Photography to see the current exhibit of work by Stephen Wilkes. Kate and I had seen his large photographs of Ellis Island on a previous trip to Santa Fe. This exhibit showed pieces from that exhibit plus others and his more recent work. It was excellent.
Next I visited LewAllen Contemporary gallery—I always visit here when I am able. I was fortunate to see two fine pieces by Sharon Booma and two others by Sammy Peters, both artists I admire very much.
Next I went to the Georgia O’keeffe Museum. This was a bit disappointing. The current exhibit featured photographs of Georgia both in New York and New Mexico. They were in the nature of snapshots and with a couple of exceptions, not particularly interesting. Still I like her work and always enjoy seeing it again.
By this point I was bushed so I decided to retire to Dick and Janes for a rest and to update this blog.
Filed under: New Mexico, Uncategorized | 1 Comment
Tags: aspen, Big Tesuque, mountains, New Mexico, photography, Santa Fe, southwest, Travel
Old Town Southwestern Style
Just a quick update. I will write more later. Below are some shots taken yesterday afternoon in Alubquerque.

Flags in Old Town, Albuquerque, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

San Felipe st., Old Town, Albuquerque, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009
Filed under: New Mexico, Uncategorized | 1 Comment
Tags: Albuquerque, New Mexico, photography, southwest, Travel
The Hacienda in Tularosa
What follows are images of the Hacienda De Mi Madre, the bed and breakfast I stayed at for two nights in Tularosa, New Mexico. It is a study in contrast. The Hacienda itself was comfortable, clean and quiet. The owners were helpful and hospitable. Yet it was in the midst of what could be characterized as a ghost town. Most of the buildings on Granado street were vacant. On the west side of the Hacienda was the shell of what had been a grocery store. Further up street was Coffee and More, in what had been the Tularosa Dry Goods store. Surprisingly it had wireless internet and I was able to use my laptop.

Hacienda De Mi Madre, Tularosa, NM, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

Inside the kitchen of the Hacienda, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

Backyard at the Hacienda (note the blue gate), © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

View over the blue gate, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

Corner of the kitchen, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

The commons area of the Hacienda, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

My car in front of the Hacienda (note grocery store shell). © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

Sign remnant on the old grocery store wall, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

Coffee and More—it had Wi-Fi, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009
TO BE CONTINUED…
Filed under: New Mexico, Uncategorized | 6 Comments
Tags: abandoned, New Mexico, photography, sign, southwest, Travel, Tularosa
Yesterday, the 14th of October was a long, hot and wonderful day. It began with a visit to the Space History Center in Alamogordo.

Space Center, Alamogordo, NM, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

White Sands (horizontal white strip) and Alamogordo, NM, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

Air Gun, Space Center, Alamogordo, NM, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009
When I purchased my admission ticket I mentioned to the woman that my oldest son was an aerospace engineer, and that he would love to see this place. She asked where he worked and a I told her he was a research scientist at Lawrence Livermore Labs. As I told her this an older man in the office with her was listening. Later he came up to me as I was looking out the 4th floor window across Hollowman Air Force Base at White Sands. He wanted to know more about the kind of work Matt was doing. That started a great conversation. His name was Charles, I believe, but I failed to make a note of it.
Soon some other people came by and he asked if we all would like him to do a talk and demonstration on the biological effects of space travel on the astronauts. I said, ” absolutely.” So he began a fascinating talk explaining how the astronauts eat, eliminate body wastes and sleep in space.
It turns out he was a former underwater demolitions officer who later became a NASA recovery specialist. Now retired he works as a docent at the center. He had lots of stories about the astronauts he knew and worked with. He told the group that he was one of the guys who jumped into the water from helicopters to swim to the capsules and open the hatches (Mercury, Apollo and Gemini. One day a year or two ago in one of his talks at the center he explained he had been one of three swimmers who open the hatches on the Apollo capsule that astronaut William Anders had been on. A woman then stood up and said “I have to shake your hand right now.” She went on to say, “I have always wanted to meet the men who threw up on my father.” She was William Anders daughter.
Apparently the astronauts on that mission had become ill due to failures with the methods then in use for on-board hygiene. Consequently body waste had been released into the cabin and all the astronauts had vomited. The stench was horrific. When he and the two other swimmers opened the hatches they were overcome by this stench and vomited on the astronauts inside. He later spoke with Anders and apologized. Anders responded “I hadn’t noticed.”
After the formal presentation he and I had a lengthy conversation, and he shared several anecdotes about the space programs and the many astronauts he knew.
After leaving the Space Center I drove to White Sands National Monument. Immediately upon arriving I saw a young girl with a cellphone camera trying to photograph a Road Runner in the bushes next to the visitors center. I took advantage of the opportunity and we both got our pictures. I then spent the rest of the afternoon in solitary bliss, finding compositions in the dunes—reading the play of light and shadows and marveling at this spectacle.
Near sunset I joined a group led by one of the Rangers, for what was supposed to be an informative tour. However, this Ranger seemed to know very little about her surroundings. She was unsure which mountain range was to the east of White Sands was it the San Andres or the Sacramentos, she said “I can never keep them straight.” I knew but didn’t say anything. Someone asked her did the Rio Grande river flow nearby. She said she didn’t know. However, I did learn from her the name of the beetle I had photographed at the Bosque del Apache, the day before and she told us that Alamogordo in Spanish means, “fat cottonwood tree.”. To be fair she is a student and this is a part-time job for her. She is not a trained naturalist. Still you’d think she would remember the San Andres mountains provide the western boundary of White Sands and the Sacramentos make the eastern boundary.

Trinity Site marker, near San Antonio, NM, © Michael M. Smith 2009

Valley of Fire (volcanic rock) at north end of White Sands, near Carrizozo, NM, © Michael M. Smith 2009

White Sands, NM, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

Road Runner, White Sands, NM, © Michael Maurer Smith

Road Runner, White Sands, NM, © Michael Maurer Smith

Dune Shadow, White Sands, NM, © Michael Maurer Smith 2009

My shadow, White Sands, NM, © Michael M. Smith 2009
Filed under: New Mexico, Uncategorized | 3 Comments
Tags: New Mexico, photography, southwest, Travel
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wait wait… don’t (do) tell me!
A window along Michigan Avenue, Chicago, © 2010 Michael M. Smith
Shown here are some photos from the recent WKAR TV sponsored excursion we took to Chicago to see a live taping of the National Public Radio show, “wait wait…don’t tell me.”
Kate in the Chase Auditorium, Chicago, © 2010 Michael M. Smith
Carl Kasell, Peter Sagal, Tom Bodett, Kyrie O'Connor, Alonzo Bodden, © 2010 Michael M. Smith
It had been several years since either of us had been in Chicago and our last time there it had been blustery and cold. This time the weather was remarkably warm. On both days, the 11th and 12th of November, the temperatures were in the mid sixties. It was sunny and not windy—contrary to the city’s reputation.
We also had time to do some shopping and visit both the Art Institute as well as the Museum of Contemporary Art. The latter was a particular treat for me as I was given an excellent introduction to the work of painter Luc Tuyman by an excellent docent.
Luc Tuymans at the Museum of Contemporary Art, Chicago, © 2010 Michael M. Smith
At the Art Institute I had the pleasure of revisiting some favorited paintings and seeing some excellent photographs by David Plowden and Walker Evans.
Lion on the steps of the Chicago Art Institute, © 2010 Michael M. Smith
Kate and I also enjoyed the company of our friend Jeanie Croope at a wonderful dinner at the Purple Pig. All-in-all it was a great two days.
Mike, Jeanie and Kate at the "Purple Pig." Chicago, © 2010 Michael M. Smith
Jeanie, Cindy and Kate in front of the Allerton Hotel, © 2010 Michael M. Smith
The beginning, Adams Street, Chicago, © 2010 Michael M. Smith
Anish Kapoor's "Cloud Gate" in Millenium Park, Chicago, © 2010 Michael M. Smith
Sweep up on Michigan Avenue, Chicago, © 2010 Michael M. Smith
Filed under: Chicago, Photography Comment, Travel | 1 Comment
Tags: Chicago, David Plowden, NPR, photography, Purple Pig, Reflection, wait wait don't tell me, WKAR